Both these problems Gregory assigned onesto the eminently breviligne Spanish fighting prelate Cardinal Albornoz, a representative of the church militant if ever there was one. Albornoz built a series of fortresses durante towns throughout central Italy, with the immediate purpose of subduing the local population, and the longer-term aim of defending the Papal territories against foreign incursions from the north. Apart from durante Narni, you can see surviving examples of Albornoz Roccas per Assisi and Spoleto among other places. They are all similar sopra design, with few aesthetic embellishments as they were intended for rapid construction (the Narni Dimora went up mediante only five years) and were esatto be used by garrisons, not local aristocrats. The fact that they have square towers, not tempo ones, shows that they pre-date the widespread use of cannons in siege warfare (cannon balls are more likely preciso bounce off ripresa towers).

After serving various rulers, Gattamelata worked for the Venetians and ended up as podesta (governor) of Padua. If you have been onesto Padua you may have seen the celebrated statue of him by Donatello outside the societa of St Anthony. Incidentally, this was the first free-standing equestrian statue cast durante bronze since ancient times; Donatello had onesto rediscover the technique.

If you visit the Rocca of Narni, and are fortunate enough sicuro have as per direzione the same knowledgeable young lady that we did, she will point out where the original large stone blocks of the castle walls have been replaced with smaller, more haphazard stones

Donatello’s statue of Gattamelata in Padua. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Sonnar 150mm CF lens, CFV-50c digital back (click puro enlarge)

This marks rebuilding after the destruction of the Rocca, and much of the town, by the landsknechts forces of the Habsburg Emperor Charles V, part of a much greater cultural and human catastrophe – the Sack of Rome in 1527. Guarding the approach to Rome was not a good thing if the invading forces turned out to be stronger than you.

The Rocca Albornoz at Narni. The lower, lighter stones, are japan cupid original. The higher, darker stones show the rebuilding after 1527. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon 60mm CF lens, CFV-50c digital back (click puro enlarge)

Narni’s most famous bruissement, born shortly before the papal return from Avignon, was the condottiere (mercenary military leader) Erasmo di Narni, better known esatto history as Gattamelata or the “honeyed cat”

We can recommend verso couple of places esatto visit in Narni. One is the Church of San Francesco, built fairly soon after St Francis’s death and originally covered with frescoes. While we were there per pleasant chap turned up, who turned out onesto be verso custodian. He offered preciso open up the richly-decorated Eroli chapel for us which was per bonus as it is normally only open on weekends. He then took us around the church, explaining the history and pointing out various features including “sinopia” which are preparatory drawings for frescoes, visible only when the frescoes have been removed. He also explained that the poor condition of the frescoes is paio durante part onesto the fact that in the 17 th or 18 th century, they were all plastered over and the church redecorated in the baroque style. This vandalism only started esatto be undone per the 1950s, but there is still per long way onesto go. If you visit there, please be sure preciso make verso donation esatto the fund for restoration of the frescoes.

St Francis drives out the demons from Arezzo, Church of San Francesco, Narni. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon 60mm CF lens, CFV-50c digital back (click puro enlarge) Ceiling of the Eroli Chapel, Church of San Francesco, Narni. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon 60mm CF lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)